How much house can I afford in Texas?
Work backward from your income to a real number. Enter what you earn, your monthly debts, your down payment, and your own rate, and this calculator finds the highest Texas home price that keeps your full payment, property tax and insurance included, inside a comfortable debt-to-income range.
- P&I, principal and interest$0
- Property tax$0
- Home insurance$0
- PMI$0
- HOA dues$0
| Year | Principal | Interest | Balance |
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How this affordability calculator works
Most affordability tools ask for a price and tell you the payment. This one runs the other direction, the way a lender does. It starts with your gross monthly income, applies a debt-to-income target, subtracts the monthly debts you already carry, and turns whatever is left into the highest home price whose full payment still fits. That full payment is not just principal and interest. It folds in Texas property tax, homeowners insurance, mortgage insurance, and any HOA dues, because those are what actually land in your monthly number.
Because taxes, insurance, and mortgage insurance all scale with the price, the calculator solves the loop for you and settles on a figure, then shows the payment breakdown, your loan amount, and the share of income it uses. Everything runs in your browser. Nothing you type is sent to me or saved anywhere, so you can be candid with the inputs and get an honest answer.
The 28/36 rule, and how lenders actually decide
Lenders look at two debt-to-income ratios. The front-end ratio is your housing payment as a share of gross monthly income. The back-end ratio is all of your monthly debt, the housing payment plus car loans, minimum credit card payments, and student loans, as a share of that same income. The classic guideline is 28 percent front and 36 percent back, which is why you hear the 28/36 rule.
In practice the back-end ratio is the one that usually binds, and automated underwriting is more flexible than the old rule. Conventional, FHA, VA, and USDA loans frequently approve higher back-end ratios when the rest of the file is strong, sometimes into the 43 to 50 percent range with solid credit, cash reserves, or, for VA, enough residual income left over each month. That is why this calculator lets you choose a conservative, moderate, or higher target rather than locking you to one number. The honest move is to qualify for one thing and spend like you qualified for less.
One detail that trips people up: lenders count the debts that show on your credit report and the new housing payment. They do not count utilities, groceries, insurance you pay out of pocket, or the streaming bundle. So the calculator asks only for the debts an underwriter would actually use.
What moves your Texas buying power the most
Five inputs do most of the work, and you can feel each one by changing it in the calculator:
- Property tax. Texas has no state income tax and leans on property tax instead, so the effective rate runs higher than most states and pulls your buying power down. A primary residence with the homestead exemption pays less, and the rate varies a lot by county, so set it to your area.
- Your monthly debts. Every dollar of car or card payment comes straight off your housing budget. Clearing a payment before you buy is often the fastest way to raise the price you can reach.
- Your down payment. More cash down means a smaller loan for the same price, and crossing 20 percent on a conventional loan drops PMI entirely.
- Your rate. Since you enter your own rate, you can see exactly how a higher or lower number changes the answer. This is also why a quote that fits your file matters.
- Your term. A shorter term builds equity faster but raises the monthly payment, which lowers the price you can carry at the same income.
Your loan program changes the answer
The same income buys different amounts of house depending on the program, because each one treats mortgage insurance and upfront fees differently. Switch the loan type at the top of the calculator to compare:
- Conventional. PMI applies under 20 percent down and ends as you build equity, so a larger down payment stretches further here.
- FHA. A lower down payment option, but it carries both upfront and monthly mortgage insurance, which trims how much home a given payment buys.
- VA. For eligible veterans and service members, with zero down and no monthly mortgage insurance, so more of every payment goes to the loan itself. That often means real buying power. A one-time funding fee is financed in unless you are exempt.
- USDA. For eligible rural and many suburban Texas areas, with zero down, a small monthly fee, and an upfront guarantee fee financed in.
You can read the details on my conventional, FHA, VA, and USDA program pages, then send me your scenario so I can confirm what you qualify for.
What this estimate is, and what it is not
This tool estimates a comfortable price range from the numbers you enter. It is not an approval, a pre-qualification, or a commitment to lend, and it does not account for your full credit profile, cash reserves, employment history, or the specific property. It also does not include closing costs or the cash you set aside for reserves, which a real pre-approval will.
Treat the result as a planning figure that keeps you from falling for a house out of range. When you want the number that carries weight with a seller, I pre-qualify you against your actual file and hand you a letter. Rather than guess, that is when buying power becomes real.
Common questions
How much house can I afford on $100,000 a year in Texas?
It depends on your monthly debts, your down payment, your rate, and Texas property tax and insurance, so enter your numbers for a real figure. As a rule of thumb, lenders want your full housing payment plus other debts to land within roughly 36 to 43 percent of gross monthly income. Texas property taxes run higher than most states, which pulls buying power down compared with the same income elsewhere. The calculator works the math backward from your income to a price.
What debt-to-income ratio do mortgage lenders use?
Lenders weigh a front-end ratio (housing as a share of gross income) and a back-end ratio (all monthly debt as a share of gross income). The traditional guideline is 28 percent front and 36 percent back, but automated underwriting on conventional, FHA, VA, and USDA loans often approves higher back-end ratios, sometimes into the 43 to 50 percent range with strong credit, reserves, or residual income. This calculator lets you pick a conservative, moderate, or higher target.
Does a car payment lower how much house I can afford?
Yes. Monthly debts like car loans, credit card minimums, and student loans count against your debt-to-income budget almost dollar for dollar, so they directly reduce the housing payment you qualify for and the price you can afford. Paying down or clearing a monthly obligation before you buy is one of the fastest ways to raise your buying power. The calculator shows the effect the moment you change the debts field.
How much income do I need to buy a $400,000 house in Texas?
The income needed depends on your down payment, your rate, your other monthly debts, and Texas property tax and insurance on the home. Rather than a single number, use the calculator: adjust your inputs until the affordable price reaches your target, and you will see the income and debt mix that supports it. For a confirmed figure on your scenario, I can pre-qualify you.
Is this affordability calculator the same as a pre-approval?
No. This is an estimate to help you plan, not an approval, a pre-qualification, or a commitment to lend. A real pre-approval reviews your credit, income documents, assets, and the loan program, and it carries weight with sellers. When you are ready, I can pre-qualify you and put a letter in your hands. The calculator is the starting point, not the decision.
Know your number, then make it real.
A calculator gets you a range. I price your actual Texas scenario, taxes and program details included, and pre-qualify you with a letter you can shop with.